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Stealth and 3000GT General Info General Questions and Comments regarding the Stealth and 3000GT. Newbie questions welcome.

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  #1  
Old - March 29th, 2006, 10:21 PM
ericherm1 ericherm1 is offline
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Timing belt replacement & Cam gear alignment

Hello all. Well I got my heads back from the machine shop and have them on the car. Now goes the timing belt. I'm having trouble with that issue. I have a copy of the Mitchels manual attached and am puzzled on what they say is the final cam gear alignment.

I have done my research on this and found that all you need to do is line the cam gears up with like they show in Fig. 3 on the attacments and have the crank lined up with its corresponding mark and walla its done. Well they talk about a final alignment for the cam gears???? I'm so confused.

I have a website on how to do it and need to know if I should just line them up marks even as shown and crank at TDC or continue with this mind boggling final alignment crap??????

http://www.vr4stealth.com/60k-tune.htm





Thanks all, and if this helps anyone else then woo hoo!!
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  #2  
Old - March 30th, 2006, 07:33 AM
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TTAngel TTAngel is offline
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When we did my 60k we *sorry, greg, spoiler* took white out, and marked the belt coming off, and the cam and crank gears. All corrisponding marks.

Take the belt off, transfer white out marks to new belt, put belt on. If your old belt did not skip timing you knew you were perfect.

Then to double check, yes, rotate the engine (by hand or turning crank with breaker bar) until the marks on the cam gears and crank gears all line up with marks on the heads and the mark for the crank gear. I forget what it's on... sorry.

The real tough part isn't lining up the marks, it's getting the tensioner on right.

once you have all the marks on, and the tensioner on, pull the gernade pin. wait for ten or 15 minutes, and try and reinsert the pin. you should be able to.

then, with the pin again pulled, grab your breaker bar, and spin the engine through a few times. Then check the timing marks again. if they are still lined up your good to go.

hope that helps, that's the way I'd do it.
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  #3  
Old - March 30th, 2006, 07:37 AM
ericherm1 ericherm1 is offline
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I had to change the heads and cams completly so the white out marking was out of the question. I wanted to do that but the friggen heads warped so I decided to do the timing belt at the same time.
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Old - March 30th, 2006, 08:12 AM
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TTAngel TTAngel is offline
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ah, sorry to hear that.
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  #5  
Old - March 30th, 2006, 11:05 PM
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xwire xwire is offline
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white out???? NO!!!!!!! if you only knew how many time's I have pulled heads on VW's (who are famous for hidden timing marks) because some one lined it up on a worn stretched belt and then put a new belt on and found they were a tooth off (enough to bend valves in just about every engine VW uses these days)

the proper way to do a timing belt is, line up the marks on the the heads (the front head with flip past the marks due to the cams opening valves while the marks are lined up)

put the bottom end in TDC

install heads

starting at the crank (check to make sure it is still in time) feed belt on, use a socket to hold the belt on and to help keeping the crank from moving

working from crank up to the rear exhaust cam gear route the belt around the idler and around the rear cam gear ( I usually run the rear cam gear a little clock wise past the timing mark then pull it back to the mark with the belt on to make sure it is tight) recheck to make sure the crank is in time

do the same with the rear intake cam

under the water pump

rotate the front intake cam just past the timing mark (clockwise) wrap belt,

do the same to the front exhaust cam, around the timing tensioner

tension using the proper tool on the timing tensioner pulley, always rotate it clockwise to tighten (will kick loose if counter clockwise) tighten,

check all timing marks

a cut on the crank gear with an arrow
heads have marks on the front of the heads that line up with the marks on the front of the cam gears, also marks on the rear of the gears that line up with marks on the valve covers

if all the marks line up (the tensioner should still have the pin installed) remove the socket from under the crank pulley, rotate the motor over gently, if it binds STOP!!!! do not force it or you will bend valves ( think very very bad)

rotate it over a couple of full revolutions (think four turns of the crank gear) line the crank mark back up, check all the marks, if not lined up got back and start again... if properly tensioned you should be able to pull the pin from the tensioner and put it back in even after rotating the engine over again....


yea there is just a little to it and this was the short version hope it helps and if you fuck your shit up it is by no means my fault
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Old - April 4th, 2006, 06:33 PM
ericherm1 ericherm1 is offline
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Yup, I just lined up the marks on the cam covers and set the crank to TDC with the crank mark and walla.... done. I was so curious I took it down to the dealer to verify my work and they said it was tits on!


BUT.. I have another problem. When the car starts to get hot it starts steaming from the heads. I read that the N/A head bolts werent tork to yeild so I just torked them down to 90lbs each in sequence. Now the head gaskets I used were the same part # for the SL as for the VR4. Should I have torked them to yeild?
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  #7  
Old - April 4th, 2006, 06:55 PM
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VeeRFour05 VeeRFour05 is offline
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Torque to yeild i do belive, did you get new head bolts or reuse your old ones because you should get new ones.
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  #8  
Old - April 4th, 2006, 07:05 PM
ericherm1 ericherm1 is offline
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yup I bought new ones.
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  #9  
Old - April 6th, 2006, 09:28 PM
Monochrome Monochrome is offline
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First I line up all the timing marks, then I used to mark the belt with whiteout on all the sprockets. The white out marking has done me well for over 25 t-belts. The only function they serve is a secondary check for the belt. I don't do it too much anymore though but recommend it to new guys because once in a while, when I don't use it, one of the cams will be off because of slack in the belt somewhere.

I guess I could see how using white out could cause you to get off a tooth if you don't align all the timing marks before removing the belt but it never happened with the first few belts I did (before lining up all the marks). These cars aren't VWs.

When putting the new belt on, I start with the front exhaust cam. I hold the cam inline with the mark (I'm talking about the mark you see on the side of the valve cover and line with the tooth with the dot on it on the cam) with a 17mm wrench and put the belt on it. Then I use 2 butterfly clips or zipties to hold the belt in place and move onto the front intake came.

For the rear heads, we're lucky and the cams will stay in place when you line up the marks. Once again, making sure there's no slack in the belt, slide the belt on those cams and fasten clips on them.

Now for the crank, I reinstall just the crank bolt and rotate the crank one tooth backwards before putting the belt on. This is because the slack in the belt will be between the front exhaust cam and the crank so when you tighen it and spin the whole assembly the crank mark will come back into alignment.

Of corse, after the tension is set, rotate the whole assembly and double check the timing marks...
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Last edited by Monochrome; - April 6th, 2006 at 09:31 PM.
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  #10  
Old - April 6th, 2006, 09:33 PM
Monochrome Monochrome is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericherm1
BUT.. I have another problem. When the car starts to get hot it starts steaming from the heads. I read that the N/A head bolts werent tork to yeild so I just torked them down to 90lbs each in sequence. Now the head gaskets I used were the same part # for the SL as for the VR4. Should I have torked them to yeild?
It's probably just grease and crap burring off from your hands from handling the parts. It'll go away.
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95 SSG Stealth TT- Sold
11.981 @ 115.81mph - 22psi - 110 octane
12.031 @ 116.79mph - 20psi - 110 octane

95 Emerald Green Pearl Stealth TT - It's stock too.
...no really it is...
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  #11  
Old - April 7th, 2006, 05:04 PM
ericherm1 ericherm1 is offline
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Yeah, I found out that one of the 3 coils were bad so I preplaced that and then found that the ignition module was bad so it was sending a intermitant signal to the coils. Thats probably what caused the coil to go bad in the first place.

Anyhow I think that the smoke was coming off the motor because those cyl. that weren't firing were over heating causing everything to burn.
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