SDS install Soon

[ldcarson]

Hello everyone - New to this board. Just wanted to add to SOHC side. I am starting the SDS installation. Some of us (over on 3si) have already started, I plan to start mine in about 3 weeks time, just waiting on some last minute parts to get here. Going to try and get a before and after Dyno done, but will have to see, its harder to do these things here in Moscow. Looking forward to adding some power to the SOHC!

[TTAngel]

Sweet. the SOHC side could use somebody leading the charge in performance.

[Danin Re']

I thought I was leading in performance... doesn't making my car black/white instead of just black add something like 500hp?

[TTAngel]

sorry, forgot. my bad.

SC << Black and white.

:dance2:

[Danin Re']

OK... cool... I'd hate to have to beat down the guy that told me that if it wasn't true! :D

[/hijack]

Let us know how the install goes... I haven't actually been on 3si in a while, but I remember the guys who just bought the package for the DOHC were having major problems with installs and getting little help. I'm sure the SOHC install will go a lot more smoothly since it's been around longer and had a chance for bugs to be worked out.

[specialblend]

welcome aboard...danin' is the resident turbo paint expert...if you want to add horse power with paint he's the guy you talk to.

represent!

[ldcarson]

Thanks guys. glad to wee the humor with us SOHC gang is still in exsistance. LOL Fianlly got the kit inventoried and am going over teh nistructions, making notes from where some other people have some porblems and once I get it all sorted onpaper, its going to go under the knife.

[ldcarson]

Update 1: SDS is here, IPT modified valve body with Shift kit has arrived, IPT end clutch has arrived, Innovative LM-1 with WB o2 is here, Got autometer Boost, and egt. Awaiting SFR LSD, XD-1 Gauge, IPO Plugs, wires, fuel pressure gauge. Hopefully the rest arrives this thursday. I only get mail once a week over here at teh APO and it takes 3-4 weeks to get stuff. So as soon as it arrives I am going to get started. Just waiting on last few parts. I hope it goes well. At least Ross has re-appeared over on 3si and has been answering alot of questions. Will keep everyone updated on my progress. later..

[Danin Re']

I can imagine it takes forever to get stuff over there. Good luck and thanks for keeping us posted!

[ldcarson]

Well finally got the use of a runway and some GPS timing device. 0-60 in 10.99(Fastest) and 11.22 (Slowest) Couldn't get a quartmile time (400 meters) with the runway only 600 meters in length, the stock breaks SUCK....This was teh before we tear it apart. So i decided to let a professional tuner do the install, with me of course helping where I can and mostly learning from them. Today we took out the tranny and the motor. Going to get the Valve body, end clutch and SFR LSD insert in stalled, tehn do the motor mounts.yada, yada, yada. Will keep updated on my progress. Man I have to say its a scary thing to see it all COME out like that. Makes me really nervous. LOL Now do those times sound about right? And does anyone know how yu would extrapulate the 1/4 times out of that? thanks again...

[ldcarson]

Ok haven't forgoten you guys been busy:

Another update - All of th Mechanicals are done. I decided not to go with Solid Mounts. When we pulled the OEMs off they were still very much new with plenty of rubber left. So will be throwing up some solids here soon for sale. Headers are done and have placed all 5 O2's(4 stock and 1 W/B) in place. Bungs and welds look great. LSD was installed in the ATX along with the IPT modified Valve body. The LSD was a very tight fit in the ATX and was harder to insert than we thought it would be. There are some differences in the INstall instructions (Based upon a MTX) and the ATX. I wish I had taken pictures, of it but didn't. Anyway its done and all back together. OIL feed lines were tapped and run up to engine Vortech area. You do have to shim the bracket for the SDS. it is NOT a direct fitment, and seems to be off in its placement. I have sent Ross at ripps a picture of what is needed for future. The MAS adapter is too small and does not fit. You''ll have to get a 3 to 4 inch converter (PVC) from Home depot or something like that. Also notified Ross on this issue. the next problem was the injectors were crap. the Venom 310s (High impedance) were flow tested before installation and found to bad. 4 of them flowed at 300, 1 at 360 and one at 600. there is no way for the SAFC to control each of tehm so no way to get a tune. I believe this is what is causing another install to have surge problems and he is currently puling his injectors to replace. So since I am in Russia with no access and long wait times for parts, I decided to buys ome 360TT injectors (Low impedance) and re-wire the N/A harness. We are in process of working on that right now. We were unable to find the resitor pack so we are cuting and soldering direct in the N/A harness. I have drilled the Plenum and installed Lightweights water/alki injection and have tapped the Washer Fluid resovior. I am hoping that tuesday/wednesday timeframe we can fire it up for the first time and start tunning. I have also decided to order the MAFTPro and go with speed density in this setup (www.maftpro.com), I plan to eliminate teh MAS all together, but this will be awhile as I am going to run teh SFAC2 for awhile untill I get all parts I need for this conversion. So all in all its taking alittle longer than thought, but we are getting there. Thats all for now...

[stealthawd]

definitely keep us up to date on the progress...very interested in seeing what it throws down...

[ldcarson]

Ok here is another update on where we stand. We finally fired it up yesterday. All i can say is WOW! She sounds mean! We are running into some tunning issues, and after some preliminary settings the engine still runs very rich on idle and low revs. I think there are possibly several causes for this.

1. 360 cc injectors are too big for the SAFC even with 50% correction. Which I don't believe is the problem, I mean the DOHC uses 360's? I would be curious to know what the DOHC group buy is using? My Vr-4 uses 360's just not sure if the DOHC N/A uses the same, not that it matters. the venom injectors were high impedance 310's, so moving to low impedance 360's should not make much of a difference.

2. The DIY resistors that we fitted could possibly not be allowing the ECU to control properly the injector pulsing. There weren't any problems with the TT conversions doing this, does anyone think this could be a problem with the Vortech type setup? Damn I wouldn't have had to do this if teh Venom injectors sent were good! I don't believe this is an issue just something that I am throwing out there, so if anyone knows more about how the Injector pulse is controlled that would be a big benefit to me..knowledge wise anyway...yeah i know Search...I am doing that, just not many people wiring resitors in-line on teh N/A Harness with N/A ECU's...

3. After fitment of free flow exhust the rear oxygen sensor that is the key to AFR correction for ECU is not seeing a correct gas flow to be able to send the right signal to ECU. This means that the gas escaped too quickly for the sensor to react and provide the correct correction. On some vehicles with this type of setup I have seen a small by-pass tube on the main exhaust for O2 that fits back into main exhaust pipe. This provides a constant gas velocity for the lambda to react, has anyone else seen anything like this? I don't know whether this applies to our case but it may be one of the reasons and am curious if anyone one has any thoughts on this idea as well?

4. And the final issues is the air bypass inlcuded in the kit is not positioned in a clever way. I mean maybe its just me, but the by-pass is positioned AFTER the MAF sensor, and according to RIPPS, on idle it should always be held open (about 2 mm) to avoid excessive pressure in the intake generated by compressor running all the time. This means that MAF is seeing MORE air than ctually is getting into the engine. I am thinking we may have to reposition the by-pass and put it right AFTER the compressor but BEFORE the MAF sensor.

Anyone please feel free to comment. We are still just in the tuning phase with these minor issues...And I am new to this....

[TTAngel]

Hey, way to go on the supercharger install. good luck with the tuning process.

I'm not sure how much I can help, but I'm gonna throw out a few ideas... just stop reading when I sound like a retard.

We are running into some tunning issues, and after some preliminary settings the engine still runs very rich on idle and low revs. I think there are possibly several causes for this.
how is your fuel pump set up... The TTs run rich if an aftermarket pump is hotwired at an idled because there is to much flow for the fuel pressure regulator. might be somewhere to look.

I am throwing out there, so if anyone knows more about how the Injector pulse is controlled that would be a big benefit to me..
any way that you have at your disposal to log IDC?

4. And the final issues is the air bypass inlcuded in the kit is not positioned in a clever way. I mean maybe its just me, but the by-pass is positioned AFTER the MAF sensor, and according to RIPPS, on idle it should always be held open (about 2 mm) to avoid excessive pressure in the intake generated by compressor running all the time. This means that MAF is seeing MORE air than ctually is getting into the engine. I am thinking we may have to reposition the by-pass and put it right AFTER the compressor but BEFORE the MAF sensor.

Maybe it's me, but I'm not following you on this part...

You have an open hole after the MAS that feeds air at an idle...? or it's like a bypass that is open to the intake track at an idle...

And if it is an open hole after the MAS this would mean that the MAS is NOT seeing all the air, or is seeing LESS air than is actually entering the engine, and could also be attributing to your rich at idle problem.

just my ramblings... hope it helped...

[TTAngel]

oh, or maybe you mean that by the compressor running all the time your getting pressure in the pelnum and that means that it is a bypass that is forcing air out at an idle that the MAS has already accounted for... but yeah, that's measured air, and if your letting it out of a hole that doesn't loop back around, (much like a blow off valve, or a "bypass valve" does when the turbo cars shift) then you will run rich at an idle...

[ldcarson]

oh, or maybe you mean that by the compressor running all the time your getting pressure in the pelnum and that means that it is a bypass that is forcing air out at an idle that the MAS has already accounted for... but yeah, that's measured air, and if your letting it out of a hole that doesn't loop back around, (much like a blow off valve, or a "bypass valve" does when the turbo cars shift) then you will run rich at an idle...

Thanks for chiming in Toby...I never get bored reading anything anyone has to say :drunk: :yes: The SDS system does have a BOV and it does apear to be functioning. One of teh things I am going to look at in the morning (Its already 1030 pm here) is teh fuel pump. The kit comes with Walbro replacemetn 255, so it could be that since its not hot-wored maybe its a voltage thing or a fuel pressure thing. Thanks for some of the tips...

[ldcarson]

OK here's another update for you SDS followers. My tuner and I have found out that if We lock out the bypass and made the engine breathe as it should in NA version we immediately recorded an AFR of 14.7 on start which leaned out to 17-18:1 after warm up with -50pc correction that we made yesterday with SAFC.

Reducing the correction allowed us to get the idel AFR to comfortable 13.5, which just confirms what we were talking about yesterday - the by-pass is positioned in the wrong place. It appears as if it is fooling the MAF into thinking that there is more air going into the system than there really is, which makes the fuel mixture extremely rich as part of that volume is lost into atmosphere through bypass.

As I mentioned yesterday, we have decided we are going to relocate the bypass and put it AFTER compressor but BEFORE MAF - this will require some cutting and welding on alluminum and will take a couple of days. We will keep everyone updated....I've been trying to track down on teh DSM forums if they are setup similarly, and from most of the pictures I've seen it looks like this is the case but haven't been able to confirm it one way or the other. Anyway, at least when the By-pass is locked out the car suddenly runs and idles real smooth with all readings now in the Green, and we have brought the SAFC way down from the +50 setting...!

[TTAngel]

yay for potatos.

can you post a picture of this set up... I'm still trying to visualize this bypass as something similar to a stock TT blow off valve that is open during idle...

good to see it finally running.

what do you have for timing control? I've hooked an Emanage up to an NA stealth before... just curious... :D

[Jerggy13]

lets see some pics

[xwire]

I was under the impression that rip used a blow through setup for the MAF, meaning that it is located after the compressor instead of before it, some setup's I had seen had it located right before the throttle body,

and yes with how your bypass is setup it will kill your at idle/cruising fuel adjustments ECU is adding fuel for air that the engine is not receiving

what ohm resistor's did you wire in for the fuel injectors?
and how did you wire them in?


and for the simple cheeze eaters....

a bypass valve is similar to a blow off valve but...

as with a super charger always putting out boost at all RPM's, the boost has to be bypassed at idle, so unlike a BOV a bypass valve stays open at idle/cruising low load situations, most supercharger kits have this bypass air routed back to the intake side of the compressor. unlike with a turbo car not really moving much air at idle/cruise as there is not enough of a load to create heat to spool turbos and produce boost, hence a BOV only needs to open when pressure to vacuum is sourced.

yea something like that, late tired and going to the showers....

[ldcarson]

I was under the impression that rip used a blow through setup for the MAF, meaning that it is located after the compressor instead of before it, some setup's I had seen had it located right before the throttle body,

and yes with how your bypass is setup it will kill your at idle/cruising fuel adjustments ECU is adding fuel for air that the engine is not receiving

what ohm resistor's did you wire in for the fuel injectors?
and how did you wire them in?


and for the simple cheeze eaters....

a bypass valve is similar to a blow off valve but...

as with a super charger always putting out boost at all RPM's, the boost has to be bypassed at idle, so unlike a BOV a bypass valve stays open at idle/cruising low load situations, most supercharger kits have this bypass air routed back to the intake side of the compressor. unlike with a turbo car not really moving much air at idle/cruise as there is not enough of a load to create heat to spool turbos and produce boost, hence a BOV only needs to open when pressure to vacuum is sourced.

yea something like that, late tired and going to the showers....


Your absolutely right, I thought the same. At first I thought it was just a bad Ripp BOV, but after comparing pics (Of the install guide) to what the Eclispes on the DSM forum setups look like there is a difference. So we are just going to cut and re-weld it. As soon as I get it done will take some pics.

We wired 6.5 ohm NON-INductive resistors directly into each Fuel injector plug on the N/A Harness, so far it has worked great. I found a site (I think something IPO had posted or something...I'll try and dig up the link), but it had a how to do with photo's.

[ldcarson]

yay for potatos.

can you post a picture of this set up... I'm still trying to visualize this bypass as something similar to a stock TT blow off valve that is open during idle...

good to see it finally running.

what do you have for timing control? I've hooked an Emanage up to an NA stealth before... just curious... :D

I will try and get some pics this weekend, as soon as we get it done. The Ripps BOV is a Bypass Valve, although many of the SDS setups are using greddy type S BOVs as well, its just a little different sounding. I have to say I love the sound of teh Vortech. It's like a freaking jet aircraft with this Airsucking High pitched Turbine whine...No timing control. Just running LM-1 AFR, with XD-1, and SAFC2. But we do still have to tune once were finished. not out of the woods just yet...

[TTAngel]

and for the simple cheeze eaters....

little late on the draw big shooter... I already threw that out there. I just wasn't sure if that's what he meant. :bigsmile: I get confused when I have to read english.

oh, or maybe you mean that by the compressor running all the time your getting pressure in the pelnum and that means that it is a bypass that is forcing air out at an idle that the MAS has already accounted for... but yeah, that's measured air, and if your letting it out of a hole that doesn't loop back around, (much like a blow off valve, or a "bypass valve" does when the turbo cars shift) then you will run rich at an idle...

And I'll bring some cheese down with me next time. We have some sweet cheese up here.

heh. cheese and bawls.

where's that damn smilie? this thread is worthless without pics...?

[ldcarson]

Ok Guys, I took these photo's about 3 weeks ago when we did started teh install. I drilled the plenum and installed teh Injector Nozzel as you can see. Also we have added all 5 O2's the 4 stock and the LM-1/XD1 WB and teh last photo is just to verify length place of teh Charger and Shaft..its not installed. I promise I will get more this Monday/Tuesday timeframe after we get everything back together...

[ldcarson]

photos of teh O2s and headers

[ldcarson]

for meassurements only. We jsut laid it across to see where hoses would have to be moved and oil sticks to be bent etc...

[ldcarson]

Ok guys I know its been awhile. I started it up after everything was put back in place and it sounds Badass...But is running rich as a pig...The AFR changes wildly around a
constant RPM and load point. This means the computer cannot set a constant AFR based on feedback from the lambda sensor (this all happens in low throttle mode, which in our case is 30%). The check engine light when scanned tells us it is a MAF error, and resetting it does not put out the light, this is a permanent error. Once the car is started, and as it idles and warms up,(during warm up it runs extremely rich due to warm-up enrichment). The AFRs hold flat for a short period of time and then start to fluctuate either way. Same happens at low revs. I have not checked what happens at high throttle mode since I want to fix the problem first in low throttle mode before trying anything else.

In the meantime we are going to recheck the the MAF sensor for electrical faults. So does anyone know of any links to MAf test procedures for the SOHC engine, this would really help us out. Anyother advice as far as a way to possible get this thing Tuned or what might be causing the fluctuating AFR's...anything would greatly be appreciated. Thanks again...

[TTAngel]

can you borrow someone else's MAS?

or check the wiring hook ups on the fuel controller...?

[ldcarson]

can you borrow someone else's MAS?

or check the wiring hook ups on the fuel controller...?


I don't think its the MAS, but I have no other to check against. This car only has 32000 miles on it...and the MAS was perfectly fine before install. I am leaning towards it being the Fuel controller settings on the SAFC 2 not right...or wired wrong? But everything seems to come on and work fine, I can adjust on the Safc and I get all signals, but the AFR just goes nuts and I can't lock in a tune..damn thing runs rich...Am begining to think maybe I should just go MaftPro speed desnity and get rid of teh MAS althogether...

[TTAngel]

that still won't solve your problem if you cant wire it in...

also, what about oxygen sensors being all shitty...

what size injectors did you go to? how sensitive is the SAFC? would the injectors be past the SAFC's ability to control, or control well.

maybe. I have no experience with the safc. best to ask someone who does.

[xwire]

Ok guys I know its been awhile. I started it up after everything was put back in place and it sounds Badass...But is running rich as a pig...The AFR changes wildly around a
constant RPM and load point. This means the computer cannot set a constant AFR based on feedback from the lambda sensor (this all happens in low throttle mode, which in our case is 30%). The check engine light when scanned tells us it is a MAF error, and resetting it does not put out the light, this is a permanent error. Once the car is started, and as it idles and warms up,(during warm up it runs extremely rich due to warm-up enrichment). The AFRs hold flat for a short period of time and then start to fluctuate either way. Same happens at low revs. I have not checked what happens at high throttle mode since I want to fix the problem first in low throttle mode before trying anything else.

In the meantime we are going to recheck the the MAF sensor for electrical faults. So does anyone know of any links to MAf test procedures for the SOHC engine, this would really help us out. Anyother advice as far as a way to possible get this thing Tuned or what might be causing the fluctuating AFR's...anything would greatly be appreciated. Thanks again...


Notes

VOLUME AIR FLOW SENSOR


OPERATION

The volume air flow sensor located in the air cleaner converts the engine intake air volume into a pulse signal of frequency proportional to the air volume and inputs it to the engine control module, which then computes the fuel injection rate, etc. based on the input signal.
The volume air flow sensor power is supplied from the MFI relay to the volume air flow sensor and is grounded in the engine control module. The volume air flow sensor generates a pulse signal as it repeatedly opens and closes between the 5 V voltage supplied from the engine control module and ground.
TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS
Hint 1:
If the engine stalls occasionally, crank the engine and shake the volume air flow sensor harness. If the engine stalls, poor contact of the volume air flow sensor connector is suspected.
Hint 2:
If the volume air flow sensor output frequency is other than 0 when the ignition switch is turned on (but not starting the engine), faulty volume air flow sensor or engine control module is suspected.
Hint 3:
If the engine can be run idle even though the volume air flow sensor output frequency is out of specification, troubles are often found in other than the volume air flow sensor itself.
[Examples]

Disturbed volume air flow in the air flow sensor (Disconnected air duct, clogged air cleaner element)
Poor combustion in the cylinder (Faulty ignition plug, ignition coil, injector, incorrect compression pressure, etc.)
Air leaking into the intake manifold through gap of gasket, etc.
Loose EGR valve seat
INSPECTION
Using Scan Tool

NOTE: When the vehicle is new [within initial operation of about 500 km (300 miles )], the volume air flow sensor output frequency may be about 10% higher.

Using Oscilloscope

Run the engine at idle speed.
Connect the probe to the oscilloscope pick-up point as shown in the circuit diagram, and check the waveform.
HARNESS INSPECTION

Measure the power supply voltage.

Connector: Disconnected Voltage (V): Battery positive voltage (Ignition switch: ON )
OK:GO TO STEP 2
NG:Repair the harness. (A4 - Control relay) or check the control relay.

Measure the terminal voltage.

Connector: Disconnected
Ignition switch: ON Voltage (V): 4.8 - 5.2
OK:GO TO STEP 3
NG:Repair the harness. (A3-61)

Check for continuity of the ground circuit.

Connector: Disconnected OK: STOP
NG:Repair the harness. (A5-49)

Check for continuity between the volume air flow sensor and the engine control unit.

Volume air flow sensor connector: Disconnected
Engine control module connector: Disconnected OK: STOP
NG: Repair the harness. (A7-19)

attathments below, hope this helps ;)

[ldcarson]

Notes

VOLUME AIR FLOW SENSOR


OPERATION

The volume air flow sensor located in the air cleaner converts the engine intake air volume into a pulse signal of frequency proportional to the air volume and inputs it to the engine control module, which then computes the fuel injection rate, etc. based on the input signal.
The volume air flow sensor power is supplied from the MFI relay to the volume air flow sensor and is grounded in the engine control module. The volume air flow sensor generates a pulse signal as it repeatedly opens and closes between the 5 V voltage supplied from the engine control module and ground.
TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS
Hint 1:
If the engine stalls occasionally, crank the engine and shake the volume air flow sensor harness. If the engine stalls, poor contact of the volume air flow sensor connector is suspected.
Hint 2:
If the volume air flow sensor output frequency is other than 0 when the ignition switch is turned on (but not starting the engine), faulty volume air flow sensor or engine control module is suspected.
Hint 3:
If the engine can be run idle even though the volume air flow sensor output frequency is out of specification, troubles are often found in other than the volume air flow sensor itself.
[Examples]

Disturbed volume air flow in the air flow sensor (Disconnected air duct, clogged air cleaner element)
Poor combustion in the cylinder (Faulty ignition plug, ignition coil, injector, incorrect compression pressure, etc.)
Air leaking into the intake manifold through gap of gasket, etc.
Loose EGR valve seat
INSPECTION
Using Scan Tool

NOTE: When the vehicle is new [within initial operation of about 500 km (300 miles )], the volume air flow sensor output frequency may be about 10% higher.

Using Oscilloscope

Run the engine at idle speed.
Connect the probe to the oscilloscope pick-up point as shown in the circuit diagram, and check the waveform.
HARNESS INSPECTION

Measure the power supply voltage.

Connector: Disconnected Voltage (V): Battery positive voltage (Ignition switch: ON )
OK:GO TO STEP 2
NG:Repair the harness. (A4 - Control relay) or check the control relay.

Measure the terminal voltage.

Connector: Disconnected
Ignition switch: ON Voltage (V): 4.8 - 5.2
OK:GO TO STEP 3
NG:Repair the harness. (A3-61)

Check for continuity of the ground circuit.

Connector: Disconnected OK: STOP
NG:Repair the harness. (A5-49)

Check for continuity between the volume air flow sensor and the engine control unit.

Volume air flow sensor connector: Disconnected
Engine control module connector: Disconnected OK: STOP
NG: Repair the harness. (A7-19)

attathments below, hope this helps ;)


This is exactly what I need! Thank you so much...damn I have got to get me one of those Repair manuels on CD!

For Evil: Am running 360TT Low impedance injectors. Have already wired in teh non-inductive resistors into the N/A harness. SAFC2 is set currently at around -28 and running rich. I think we should be able to tune those injectors with a SAFC2. Its not like they are 500-700 injectors, and people still tune with SAFC on those sizes. Fuel Regulator is malpasi with Walbro 255 fuel pump. Everything checks out fine, now we just need to go back and verify electronics and have a look at MAS. I am hopefully we can get this resolved soon. I want to drive this beast...I did do a video of it, just quick vid of car, install, water injection and then starting it. you can really see it runs rich but damn it sounds nice...But have no way of hosting it. its only about 2 megs if anyone wants to hear it I can e-mail it out just need peeps to send e-mail addresses...Ok, back to the grind stone here.

[xwire]

This is exactly what I need! Thank you so much...damn I have got to get me one of those Repair manuels on CD!

For Evil: Am running 360TT Low impedance injectors. Have already wired in teh non-inductive resistors into the N/A harness. SAFC2 is set currently at around -28 and running rich. I think we should be able to tune those injectors with a SAFC2. Its not like they are 500-700 injectors, and people still tune with SAFC on those sizes. Fuel Regulator is malpasi with Walbro 255 fuel pump. Everything checks out fine, now we just need to go back and verify electronics and have a look at MAS. I am hopefully we can get this resolved soon. I want to drive this beast...I did do a video of it, just quick vid of car, install, water injection and then starting it. you can really see it runs rich but damn it sounds nice...But have no way of hosting it. its only about 2 megs if anyone wants to hear it I can e-mail it out just need peeps to send e-mail addresses...Ok, back to the grind stone here.

that would not be out of "one of those cd" that would be All Data, and online tech program that cover's ALL cars, just don't ask what i have to pay for it per month to have access :shocked:

email me the video and I can host it for your, xwire at swbell.net

[ldcarson]

that would not be out of "one of those cd" that would be All Data, and online tech program that cover's ALL cars, just don't ask what i have to pay for it per month to have access :shocked:

email me the video and I can host it for your, xwire at swbell.net

Well I have been playng around with the vid. (AVI File) its 900megs in length. When I convert it to Real Media its about 2 megs, but quality SUCKS...I chopped it further to 400 megs as an AVI..so am thinking maybe I'll chop it to jus the startup and runing only to see what that gives. I don't mind sending the 2 meg file but is really crappy quality...

[ldcarson]

Well I have been playng around with the vid. (AVI File) its 900megs in length. When I convert it to Real Media its about 2 megs, but quality SUCKS...I chopped it further to 400 megs as an AVI..so am thinking maybe I'll chop it to jus the startup and runing only to see what that gives. I don't mind sending the 2 meg file but is really crappy quality...

I am such an idiot. using pinnacle I forgot to set resolution to medium instead of Low or AVi. Now its 3 megs instead of a crappy 1 meg or too large 900 meg. Looks good. I sent to ur e-mail address. Its just a quick vid of engine starting, running rich as hell, but sounding damn good. It is using headers (Ripps), E2kMidpipe and stock muffler (back end) sounds like a nice V-8. Now if I can just get the damn thing tuned...

I have another video about 4-5 megs in length that has close ups of the engine (Not runing) but mostly pointing out Bov, Shaft, Water injection, Mas etc...I can send as well if anyone wants to see it. Hopefully you'll be able to host it up for teh guys and girls too look at.

[ldcarson]

Ok gang since It hasn't been hosted yet, I did finally manage to get it up on 3si FTP site. You can download it from there. Again I absolutely love the sound and am sure some of you have already heard it. Still working on the tuning portion. We are considering Drawthrough at this point since the standard Ripps way is not working. here is the link to 3si Vid.

ftp://3siuser:3sivids@204.11.239.15...0GTSDS_SOHC.wmv

[ldcarson]

X-Wire - Thanks for teh drawings and info. We have checked the MAF and it checks out OK. We have narrowed down problem to the MAF not recieveing the (-) negative signals from the ECU for some reason. So we are now going to check teh connector to teh ECU and the ECU itself. It seems to me this problem is more likely to be teh SAFC2 wireing. I can't remember off the top of my head, but would there be a negative signal that we should direct back tot eh MAF or that the SAFC would interrupt? Hopefully its just a connector problem. If anynone has had a similar problem before please chime in. Every little bit helps. I think once we get this figured out it should stablize...Stand by gang....

[ldcarson]

Well thanks to X-wire drawings we found the problem. The connector to the ECU had a "loose" connection on the ground pin. We got that fixed and the car has really settled down. We are not seeing any more jumping AFR and the check engine light is no longer on and no more limp-mode operations. We will be starting the tune process now, so am hopeful we won't run into any more problems! Car starts, and runs very nice, (Again the sound is absolutely awsome) she is running rich, but now the fun can begin! I will try and get some more video over the next week or so and post it up for those that are interested.

[xwire]

glad to hear it, sorry I did not get chance to reply to your last question..... to many cars to little me:(

[ldcarson]

Hey Guys haven't fogot about you: I am now in Texas working on my VR4 and enjoying vacation. When I left the SDS was still having a tuning problem. We honed out the BOV. The Ripp BOV is the problem. Simply put, it is POS. I was going to add an OEM Subaru BOV and may still do that, but I wanted to try honing out the RIPP BOV and correct the inacurate measurments in it. it was 12.5 mm off internally and I think this was causing it to stick open, which would cause teh AFRs to jump all over making very difficult/impossible to tune. I didn't get chance to play with it before leaving and will jump on it as soon as I hit Moscow in Dec. Will keep u posted. Anyway, am in the Lubbock area for anyone here from Texas and want to meet up sometime. Am here till 26 Nov. Be safe out there.

[TTAngel]

good to hear from you, and good to hear that you have the problems in hand.

I'm curious to see how this all turns out. keep us informed.

[ldcarson]

Hey Guys know its been awhile since I last posted an update...so here is where we stand.

It has been a long cold winter here in Moscow so Haven't had much chance to do much. But now that winter is breaking..it 20 degrees vice -20..So I now have a HALTECH f5 Supplemental injector system. I have pulled the 360TT injectors along with their resistors and have gone back to stock setup. I started on stock injectors and it runs very normal and nice with the SDS. no shifting idle or anything. We are in process now of installing a throttle body spacer where we have fabed the 2 injectors for use with the Haltech. Most of the rally cars use this over here on their turbo's and we think it should work with our cars as well.

In the interim Ripp Mods just finished up a DOHC SDS equiped car with the same setup except they are using ripp Black box and a Brat box. The Black box is basically like my Haltech. its a Fuel manager that controls the extra 2 injectors. The BRAT box is really intersting. Ripps has discovered what I and few others were seeing with our ECU's readjusting our tunes we were making on the piggy backs (Emanage, SAFC2 et...) No matter what tune I did, the Factory ECU would readjust the fuel maps trying to compensate. This caused teh famouse irratic idle or worse, the ecu would go into Limp mode and flood with fuel) I first noticed this on the O'Scope when i was watching the Voltages to and from the ECU as it made adjustments all the while trying to readjust based upon new sensor signals it was recieving. Apparently ripps has developed a BRAT box (As they call it) that intercepts these voltages and stabilizes them so the ECU doesn't adjust the factory tune...allowing you to do your tune without ECU interference. I haven't tried it yet, but am in process of getting one from Ripps. in the interim, we hope to fit the HALTECH and a new wideband sensor within a few weeks and fire it up Hopefully or at least most of us feel confident that we might finally be close to working the bugs out of teh RIPPs SDS kits. Particularly with the tuning issues we have had. Well thats all just wanted to update everyone on the project. more to come in the coming weeks.

[xwire]

really curious to see how you like the IPT valve body, keep us informed :p

[Danin Re']

Any further progress or updates here?

[ldcarson]

Well am in the states right now, but before I left, the moddified TB was done and 2 injectors were placed in it. I've gone back to stock injectors with a Haltech f5 supplemental injection. RippMods has sent me there ODB2 BRAT box which will stabilize the ECU and I will hand carry that back with me for installation. Right now am getting ready to head to Texas and install some 13Ts on the VR4 if Adam can squeeze me in. Buts thats the short and sweet.

[ldcarson]

Ok so here's another long awaited update: Finally made it back to Russia. Have finished the Modified throttle body spacer and have added supplemental injectors (2 of them) to it. Haltech is wired in and Ripps BRAT box is installed. We had some trouble with haltech, but we think its resolved now. BRAT box seems to help car run a whole lot better. Anyway, we are scheduled for Dyno tune monday/tuesday this week, so hopefully everything will go ok as the car must be deregistered for shipping to france (my new posting for the next three years) at the end of July. Only 4 more weeks and I will head to France. For those that are interested. The 13t Upgrades on the VR4 went really well. Car really kicks ass now. I hated to leave it in the garage in Texas. I am hoping the SDS will at least put a smile on my face like the VR4 did.

[ldcarson]

Ok for those that don't frequent 3si here's the latest update.

back from the DYNO:

Latest tune was done on a Dyno Pack (Here in Russia). The basically set up dyno to do pulls for just a 6 cylinder FWD vehicle in shoot out mode. It does not take into consideration anything. Pre SDS the system was at 111Kw straight pulls (at the wheels). Today with running Alki injection and supplemental injections along with SDS running 6psi we got 170Kw, then he had the machine run some calculations (Inputing vehicle information like weight, year, model and some other math(?). Straight conversion tells me this is about 220HP at the wheels, but after the other calcs. Tuner said vehicle is putting between 250-270fWhp. I still reley on the straight 160-170KW as we diid about 10KM of pulls (about 15 all together) so I guess I am faiirly pleased, although the 220HP conversion still bothers me. I always thought dyno's showed what ur doing so am not sure how the additional calculations get it where its at. In anycase to go from 149HP to 225 isn't too shabby for straight pulls. I have ZERO knock and the car runs good except for the Idle issue which I am attributing to Brat miswire. Pretty conservative tune for now. Also keep in mind most everyone that is running supp injection is using 2 680 injectors. I am only using 2 360's. Over all I am pleased with the outcome, but it is deffinately not as fast as it was when I had 6 (360's and the SAFC2) but it is alot more stable in its operation and can be daily driven. Anyway there is more work to do on the car, but that will have to wait until it and me arrives in France. I will be shipping the car here soon and hope to have it by end of August. So anyone who understands the Dyno issues feel free to chime in.

Am still having problems with the BRAT box wiring installation as the SOHC pin outs are different than the DOHC. One thing that has come up is the BRAT is designed to run a 5volt MAP and the SOHC is 2.5, so it will NOT be able to amke corrections for MAP at this time, however now that I have some new pins for BARO and 5Volts ref, I am hoping to at least sort out some of it this saturday. the Car goes on the boat in 2 weeks so time is a ticking. yeah I am headed to France for three years so am packing up and getting ready to leave Russia and take the SDS to paris. Ok thats all for now...

[ldcarson]

Hello everyone,

I know this board is normally quiet, but I still come here and keep my portion updated. OK, So where are we at. the car finally arrived from Russia in france. It is going through the registration process. i am lucky it will have diplomatic plates as the french do not allow modded cars. In anycase I've sent teh BRAT box back to PRA solutions for modification. We found out the SOHC model is runign on a 2.5 volt- 3.2 volt MAS sensor vice the 5 vvolt for the DOHC. As soon as I get it back (Am told its done and on its way) I plan to re-install and fire the beast up, tune it (My BRAT will have Potentiometers to calibrate the signals) and hopefully clear ALL CEL codes once and for all. once this is done, I need to reset TPS voltage and I will be ready to take this boy to the streets. Promise to write more soon.

[alienviking]

For some reason I find it highly amusing that a blown SOHC will have diplomatic plates. Would have LOVED to see that back home in Norway, people would have blown a gasket haha.

Good luck with it.

[Danin Re']

Glad things are starting to work out better... thanks for keeping us updated!

[ldcarson]

Sorry Guys - I haven't been over here in awhile. So much drama on 3si these days, and then I find its been on here as well. Ok, here's the latest update:

BRAT is finally installed. It was sent back to Ripps to modify with poteniohmeters so I can manual adjust the correct voltage for the MAF and Baro. Once back it toook awhile to install as we have had some crappy weather here in paris the last few weeks. I finally got it installed and have a 5 volt reference connection issue. The quick connect is not making a solid connection. Its intermittent, but I didn't let that stop me. When the BRAT was green light, I fired it up and it ran great! Finally after a long 2 1/2 years no more CELs and the car runs really great, the only time the CEL returns is when the connection cuts out. So my priority at somepoint will be to solder the connection and loose the quick connects. I did take the car for a quick run around the block and she ran perfect. Its alittle loud and sounds like a damn V8, but with the blower working the little SOHC is a whole lot faster, night and day difference. Now I just need some good weather to do some soldering...

[xwire]

sweet, any updated engine bay shop?

[ldcarson]

Well, I never got around to updating this, so I'll try and bring it up to date. The car is finally in storage. I left Paris and volunteered to go to Iraq. So I had to put the car in Storage, but before I left, RayP came over to france and did alittle work on the SDS for me. he figured out the issue with the MAF and BRAT box. We rediesgned it from Blow through to Draw through, moved the MAF to the front of the package and removed the BRAT. The car performed perfectly. Ray did some tuning and we had a fully functional SDS SOHC machine that according to Ray was as fast and perhaps faster than a stock VR4, which is saying alot for my Original Stock 149 FWHP SOHC. Had it on a dyno before RAYP worked his magic and was putting down about 265FWHP, I am guessing now it is runing 300+ as it is much, much faster and not runing rich at all.

Unfortunately I only got chance to drive it a few months before it had to go into storage, but I drove it to the UK to visit my son and put about 3500 miles on it without any more of the SDS issues we have had. All the fuel trims remained within +1 on the SAFC, and the HALTECH f5 performed flawlessly. All in all I would say we have fixed the Problem for teh SDS system for the 3000GTs, Several of teh DOHC folks are now setting there's up in the same configuration, were just awaiting confirmation that this was indeed the fix. For me it was a night and day difference. For those that didn't read 3si update, it basically was the MAF/BOV design that was causing the problem.

In anycase it was runing great when it went to storage. Yesterday I flew into Lubbock and pulled my 95Vr4 out of storage. It was like seeing my Love all over again. It was/is nice to have my other baby out and I am enjoying those little 13Ts, 19inch tires, Tein Lowering kit, all those new gauges I put in last year and the Emanage/Injector upgrades. Wow I love this car with its Viper hood. Anyway I digress. Just wanted to update those who might be interested in what the outcome finally was....

[xwire]

good to hear you got the bugs finally worked out, Ray is the man when it comes to tunning and troubleshooting