Advanced Timing and Bye Bye Lifter Tick!!!

[vogel]

Well I had my timing advanced 10 degrees today and my lifter tick no longer exists. I am happy as hell. I just figured I let you guys know, In case you have a 1st gen SOHC.

[Griffin]

Vogel, that is awsome! BTW, where in Tampa do you live? I grew up in Clearwater/Countryside and know the area very well. I lived about 10mins from Drew.

[vogel]

I technically live in "Riverview". I bought a house in Summerfield Crossing. (Exit 47- Big Bend Rd. Off of I-75).
Drew is a good guy, I see you live in Ft. Laud..... so..... do you ever hang out with Enrique, Steve, and John????
Were you at the S. Fl. Meet?

[Racer 007]

Originally posted by vogel
Well I had my timing advanced 10 degrees today and my lifter tick no longer exists. I am happy as hell. I just figured I let you guys know, In case you have a 1st gen SOHC.
Amazing. What do you think the reason behind this is? What other effects does the 10 degree advance create?

[vogel]

Originally posted by Richard

Amazing. What do you think the reason behind this is? What other effects does the 10 degree advance create?

I have no idea why this happened.... I know that it does add horse power at the expense of having to run premium fuel. ( which I use anyway) - Car does pull harder.

It may have something to do with when the spark is igniting and pushing the cam in conjuction with the lifters???

[imp pwr online]

Advancing the timing makes power because you are burning the air/fuel earlier which means the piston is farther from TDC than if timing was not advanced. As you advance the time it ignites farther from TDC. The more retarded timing becomes the closer to TDC the ignition occurs and you lose power.

WHY?

If the explosion occurs while the piston is still traveling up the piston is forced back down but is still on it's up stroke causing more power. As the spark becomes retarded the spark ignites much later, the piston is closer to TDC so it is about to change direction to down stroke on it's own. So the combustion event is not as effective on the pistons travel.

As ignition becomes too advanced you will start to get detonation. This is when the ignition either by spark or pressure occurs way to early pushing the piston down way to early in the up compression stroke. This detonation also known as knock is violent and causes cracked piston crowns, bent or snapped rods, and or spun bearings.

Higher octane will help a bit. BUT what you need is something to watch your knock counts. Harmful knock occurs before you can hear it. You will start to feel it though , as your car starts to knock your ECU see the knock and starts to retard (pull) timing to reduce it. This pulling of time creates a loss in HP but saves the motor. But it can only pull so fast and only to a point. It also starts to pour in fuel to help the problem running super rich which also lowers your horsepower.

Don't see how advancing would get rid of lifter tick, just be careful or you will soon have spun bearing-piston slap which is much worse!

[vogel]

"Don't see how advancing would get rid of lifter tick, just be careful or you will soon have spun bearing-piston slap which is much worse!"

I don't understand it either. , Spun bearing piston slap sounds bad.

:D

[Racer 007]

Originally posted by imp pwr online
Advancing the timing makes power because you are burning the air/fuel earlier which means the piston is farther from TDC than if timing was not advanced. As you advance the time it ignites farther from TDC. The more retarded timing becomes the closer to TDC the ignition occurs and you lose power.

WHY?

If the explosion occurs while the piston is still traveling up the piston is forced back down but is still on it's up stroke causing more power. As the spark becomes retarded the spark ignites much later, the piston is closer to TDC so it is about to change direction to down stroke on it's own. So the combustion event is not as effective on the pistons travel.

As ignition becomes too advanced you will start to get detonation. This is when the ignition either by spark or pressure occurs way to early pushing the piston down way to early in the up compression stroke. This detonation also known as knock is violent and causes cracked piston crowns, bent or snapped rods, and or spun bearings.

Higher octane will help a bit. BUT what you need is something to watch your knock counts. Harmful knock occurs before you can hear it. You will start to feel it though , as your car starts to knock your ECU see the knock and starts to retard (pull) timing to reduce it. This pulling of time creates a loss in HP but saves the motor. But it can only pull so fast and only to a point. It also starts to pour in fuel to help the problem running super rich which also lowers your horsepower.

Don't see how advancing would get rid of lifter tick, just be careful or you will soon have spun bearing-piston slap which is much worse!

Wow. Excellent explanation Chris. That was my next question but you answered it before I asked.

So if a 10 degree advance will possibly create bad side effects, what would be the danger of advancing say 5 degrees?

[imp pwr online]

Originally posted by Richard

Wow. Excellent explanation Chris. That was my next question but you answered it before I asked.

So if a 10 degree advance will possibly create bad side effects, what would be the danger of advancing say 5 degrees?

It's all about watching knock. Depends on Gas, air temp, plug gap, motor temp,all kinds of things. Jsut watch detonation. Advance until you get knock then pull back 5 degrees for safety

[Racer 007]

Vogel, are you experiencing knock with your advancement?

[vogel]

Originally posted by Richard
Vogel, are you experiencing knock with your advancement?

Nope, but I do run 93 octane.

[Racer 007]

The best we can get here is 91 octane at the pump. That probably helps you alot.

Cool info though.

[Stealthy_C]

WHERE CAN this eb baught at?? (advanced timeing?)

[vogel]

Originally posted by Stealthy_C
WHERE CAN this eb baught at?? (advanced timeing?)

You can do it yourself by loosening and turning your distributor cap. (you would need to buy a timing light, and know what you are doing) or you can go to a local shop and have them do it. - Just make sure that you are running premium fuel. Also, I do not think it works on the 2nd gen+ because the computers are too damn smart.

[Stealthy_C]

Where did you learn how to do this? Ive got a 94 thats second gen isnt it??? damn

[vogel]

Originally posted by Stealthy_C
Where did you learn how to do this? Ive got a 94 thats second gen isnt it??? damn

Do some research on it. You may still be able to do It. I'm not sure. I know my Girfriend has a 95 Avenger and the computer will fix everything back to factory specs. With her car there is a Superchips ICON that you can change the settings

[DVLISH]

This was one of my first mods doing the timing. 5 is safe with 10 max. I run 92 in my car. And richy yeah you cant get anything higher than 91 because of your altitude. I was running 94 for a while but the prices are getting aout of hand. And i niced my milage was better with the 92. So my car likes da 9 deuce lol.

[Raven77]

I think 5 degrees BTDC is the stock setting with the "ignition timing connecter thingie" shorted to ground. after you take the short away it goes to about 15 degrees BTDC.
I just totally rebiult my top end (blew a head gasket) and when I got it back together I must have jumped the distributer a tooth cuz the timing was way off. it wouldnt even idle...
So I pulled it back off and jumped it back a tooth and now it is to far off the other way and I am out of cap adjustment again...:confused:
I am at about 0 degrees BTDC according to the timing mark, It jumps to about 10 degrees BTDC with the jumper to ground removed.
My car Idles and runs pretty decent now, but it still has a slight miss ( I can hear it when i rev it in neutral)
any ideas?
I actually thought about drill out the "D" in the rotor to get all the adjustment I need, But I figured that isnt a really good idea..;)

[imp pwr online]

Correct, 5Degrees for base with idle adjust wire grounded then 15 degrees is idle

[Raven77]

Originally posted by imp pwr online
Correct, 5Degrees for base with idle adjust wire grounded then 15 degrees is idle
I thought that is what it was...
do you think it hurts to have it 0 degrees BTDC with the idle adj grounded?
I figure that has to be why it has a miss.
Any ideas how I can fix it without pulling the distributer again (thats a pain)?
BTW I am out of asjustment and my #5 plug wire is against the intake plenum...:mad: